In these days where Carp angling is the most popular branch of the sport, float fishing has become a forgotten art. But for those that care to learn this simple discipline, hours of great sport can be their reward.
Float fishing is one of the simplest and best forms of bite detection. You can use a float to catch all of the species of coarse fish and indeed for some it is the best method to use. Using a float gives you the ability to spot even the most timid bites as soon as they occur and offers you the advantage of stealth by causing very little disturbance as you cast your bait into your chosen swim.It is a simple method to learn but not so easy to master.
To the novice angler the number of different types of float that are available to buy can be both daunting and confusing. Which float should you use? The answer can be simplified by knowing that there are two main types of float that are used in coarse fishing the 'Stickfloat' and the 'Waggler'. Simply by knowing what purpose each of them is used for you can bring you to a better understanding of which float you should use.
The 'Stickfloat' is a float designed specifically for running water. There are many different types and variations but they all come under the description of a Stickfloat so you would know that you only use them on running water such as rivers and canals. The type of Stickfloat that you use would depend on where you are fishing and what the conditions are like. Avons,Chubbers,Pin sticks and Balsa's are a few types of 'Stickfloat and each has its purpose and is suited to use in a certain river environment.
A stickfloat differs from a waggler because the upper body of the float is fatter than its base. It also differs from a waggler by being attached to the line at its top and bottom. This is done by using two or more float rubbers that keep it locked securely in place. The stickfloats fatter upper body allows for more stability in the flow and currents of the river and stops the float from riding up when 'Holding back' which is a technique that raises the bait to tempt bites as the float travels through the swim that is one of the great advantages of using a stickfloat.
Controlling a stickfloat is a skill that can only come with practice but when mastered it is a definite asset to an anglers armoury.
The 'Waggler' is primarily used on stillwaters but can also be used to fish at range on calm medium paced rivers. There are two types of waggler 'straight' and 'bodied', straight wagglers are what they say completely straight whereas bodied wagglers indeed have a fatter body which unlike a stickfloat is always at the floats bottom end, this aids both buoyancy and stability and are primarily used in rougher weather conditions or when fishing at long range.
Wagglers are attatched to the line bottom end only through the floats eye so there is no need to use float rubbers. As with the stickfloat there are many different variations such as Peacocks and insert wagglers. Again the type you choose to use depends on the swim and the conditions in which you are fishing.
The beauty of the waggler is the incredible sensitivity they give and their streamlined shape for distance casting. Some wagglers can take a lot of weight and allow you to fish at a long range but still provide instant bite detection.
Knowing the difference between a stickfloat and a waggler is the first step to mastering the art of float fishing. You can soon learn how to discern between to the two by having a look at a mixture of different floats in your box or the tackle shop. Obviously there is a lot more to know about how to use them successfully and in my next few articles i will be taking a closer look at the various types of each and be explaining how and where it is best to use them.
Showing posts with label Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tips. Show all posts
Carp Fishing Tips - 10 Reasons Why You Should Fish The Margins
Here is an article by Gareth Watkins explaining exactly why we should fish the margins. But this is not only good advice for Carp it good advice for many species of coarse fish.so read on and enjoy these fishing tips.
Over the years I have been carp fishing both in France and the UK I have lost count of the number of carp I have caught fishing the margins. I would go as far as to say it is my number one choice of feature on any water. The less pressured the venue to closer in I would chose to fish. So here are ten of my reasons why, when you turn up at a new venue in France you should not over look the margins.
1. Largest Feature: The margins on any lake are the largest feature. Stretching all around the perimeter and that of any islands they offer a natural barrier where food will accumulate either by wind action or water movement. Food will fall or be thrown in the margins, and aquatic and semi-aquatic life will often lay eggs, hatch larvae or nest in the vegetation lined area of a lake.
2. Fish are Drawn to Feed in the Edge: Pleasure anglers nearly always fish close in, bait close in and throw spare bait in the edge; this in turn attracts fish and conditions them to patrol the margins of a lake. How often have you seen walkers, children etc feed the ducks in the edge? It stands to reason that any food thrown into a lake will also attract and be eaten by the fish. This includes carp, and is all the more true in Spring with flood water entering lakes and the run off from the land being important.
3. The Margins Offer Shelter: The margins of lakes often have overhangs & covering vegetation. Overhangs can on occasions stretch back several feet under the bankside, due to water erosion. Shaun Harrison proved this during a video shoot in December, when he banked a 20lb mirror on inches from the bank. This area, will offer a natural trap for food and shelter for fish species. Most margins are also rich in vegetation such as reedbeds, trees, lilies etc. These plants naturally grow along a margin where they are carried by the wind and currents. They offer a larder for the fish and help reinforce why margins are such a good place to fish.
4. Easy to Bait Up: It is far easier to bait up in the margin. You can do this with a simple catapult for pellets and particles or by hand for boilies. I remember in the 80's when I was fishing all sorts of particles to provide a blanket of bait, that the furthest we could fish was the catapult range of our bait. Fishing close-in increases the variety of baits you can use and avoids the use of baitboats, spods or feeders.
5. Easy to Fish Accurately: The ease of baiting means you can fish more accurately. Accuracy is so important in carp fishing. The margins are far easier to explore with a marker float, and once you have baited an area, to get your rig bang on the money. If weather conditions are against you, you have no worries about reaching your spot. Often a simple under hand swing is all that is needed.
6. Easier to land the fish: Fishing at long range is always more awkward and full of danger. However hooking a carp under the rods top gives you far more control. You are straight away in command. I have on occasions scooped a big lump into the net before it has realised its been hooked. Even if the first rush can be full blooded and brutal, the amount of line in the water and the reduced chance of getting snagged means that fish are more often than not easier to land when hooked close in.
7. Don't need big reels and long cast rods: Fishing the margins precludes the need for stepped up heavy, long distance carp rods. You can use softer more forgiving gear, lighter leads and smaller reels. You don't need big pits to cast 100 yards plus. Some of my friends still fish on the pin...now theres pleasure in fishing!!!
8. Far Margin is often quieter: If you chose to fish the far margin, and how many of us have ignored that sexy overhang on the far bank or the reed bed opposite? Then you will almost certainly be fishing the quieter part of the lake. Probably and area that is less accessible or inaccessible to other anglers or dog walkers. On waters that see a bit of pressure the carp will move away from this and the far margin is often an area they will hold up in.
9. Most people overlook this area of the lake: Curiously enough, despite all the reasons I have evoked above, the simple fact is most people don't fish the margins. I remember a question from and angler once 'Do you have any a long range swims on your lake?- because I've got rods that can cast 120 yards plus'. This type of question amazed me and my reply was that he'd be better off fishing where the fish were.
Equally even if anglers fish a close-in rod it is often at 20 odd yards, to me the margins are just that, inches off the bank.
10. If you're Too Drunk to Cast Out, Chuck it in the Edge: Finally the great Rod Hutchinson once said in 'A Carp Strikes Back', if you are too drunk to cast out, chuck it in the edge!!!
Gareth Watkins
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gareth_Watkins
Over the years I have been carp fishing both in France and the UK I have lost count of the number of carp I have caught fishing the margins. I would go as far as to say it is my number one choice of feature on any water. The less pressured the venue to closer in I would chose to fish. So here are ten of my reasons why, when you turn up at a new venue in France you should not over look the margins.
1. Largest Feature: The margins on any lake are the largest feature. Stretching all around the perimeter and that of any islands they offer a natural barrier where food will accumulate either by wind action or water movement. Food will fall or be thrown in the margins, and aquatic and semi-aquatic life will often lay eggs, hatch larvae or nest in the vegetation lined area of a lake.
2. Fish are Drawn to Feed in the Edge: Pleasure anglers nearly always fish close in, bait close in and throw spare bait in the edge; this in turn attracts fish and conditions them to patrol the margins of a lake. How often have you seen walkers, children etc feed the ducks in the edge? It stands to reason that any food thrown into a lake will also attract and be eaten by the fish. This includes carp, and is all the more true in Spring with flood water entering lakes and the run off from the land being important.
3. The Margins Offer Shelter: The margins of lakes often have overhangs & covering vegetation. Overhangs can on occasions stretch back several feet under the bankside, due to water erosion. Shaun Harrison proved this during a video shoot in December, when he banked a 20lb mirror on inches from the bank. This area, will offer a natural trap for food and shelter for fish species. Most margins are also rich in vegetation such as reedbeds, trees, lilies etc. These plants naturally grow along a margin where they are carried by the wind and currents. They offer a larder for the fish and help reinforce why margins are such a good place to fish.
4. Easy to Bait Up: It is far easier to bait up in the margin. You can do this with a simple catapult for pellets and particles or by hand for boilies. I remember in the 80's when I was fishing all sorts of particles to provide a blanket of bait, that the furthest we could fish was the catapult range of our bait. Fishing close-in increases the variety of baits you can use and avoids the use of baitboats, spods or feeders.
5. Easy to Fish Accurately: The ease of baiting means you can fish more accurately. Accuracy is so important in carp fishing. The margins are far easier to explore with a marker float, and once you have baited an area, to get your rig bang on the money. If weather conditions are against you, you have no worries about reaching your spot. Often a simple under hand swing is all that is needed.
6. Easier to land the fish: Fishing at long range is always more awkward and full of danger. However hooking a carp under the rods top gives you far more control. You are straight away in command. I have on occasions scooped a big lump into the net before it has realised its been hooked. Even if the first rush can be full blooded and brutal, the amount of line in the water and the reduced chance of getting snagged means that fish are more often than not easier to land when hooked close in.
7. Don't need big reels and long cast rods: Fishing the margins precludes the need for stepped up heavy, long distance carp rods. You can use softer more forgiving gear, lighter leads and smaller reels. You don't need big pits to cast 100 yards plus. Some of my friends still fish on the pin...now theres pleasure in fishing!!!
8. Far Margin is often quieter: If you chose to fish the far margin, and how many of us have ignored that sexy overhang on the far bank or the reed bed opposite? Then you will almost certainly be fishing the quieter part of the lake. Probably and area that is less accessible or inaccessible to other anglers or dog walkers. On waters that see a bit of pressure the carp will move away from this and the far margin is often an area they will hold up in.
9. Most people overlook this area of the lake: Curiously enough, despite all the reasons I have evoked above, the simple fact is most people don't fish the margins. I remember a question from and angler once 'Do you have any a long range swims on your lake?- because I've got rods that can cast 120 yards plus'. This type of question amazed me and my reply was that he'd be better off fishing where the fish were.
Equally even if anglers fish a close-in rod it is often at 20 odd yards, to me the margins are just that, inches off the bank.
10. If you're Too Drunk to Cast Out, Chuck it in the Edge: Finally the great Rod Hutchinson once said in 'A Carp Strikes Back', if you are too drunk to cast out, chuck it in the edge!!!
Gareth Watkins
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gareth_Watkins
Spod with accuracy
There is no point spoding out loads of bait all over the lake and then casting your hook baits yards from where you need to be when there is a sure fire way to get your spod bait and hook bait in exactly the same spot every single time.
As a specimen hunter being able to cast to the exact same spot every time is essential if you are going to be successful in catching that big one.
Before you can start to fish you have to find a clear area which you can spod out too and cast your hook baits too. I like to keep this simple, I set up one rod and cast to an area that I like the look of. As I cast I pick a specific feature on the far bank such as a tree or building, anything will do as long as it is easily visible. This will then be my casting line and I will always aim for this line as I cast.
At this point I have no rig attached just my weight. I then retrieve the weight by very slowly pulling the rod towards me. You can easily feel the weight pulling through any weed by the resistance. I reel in the slack line and then pull the rod backwards again. When you find a clear spot you will feel the difference as the weight moves freely across the bottom. This is the weed free area I am looking for so I stop pulling.
Now, I need to be able to cast to this exact spot every time because accuracy is the key to success!
I simply get some electrical tape and wrap a small piece around the line at the end of my rod tip. This gives me a marker on the line so when I recast using the feature on the far bank that I picked earlier I simply reel the line in until I can see that the tape is at the end of the rod tip. Now I know I have my bait in the exact spot that I wanted. I simply repeat this process with my other rods so that I am confident that all my baits are in clear areas that I can hit every time.
To insure that I can now reach the same spot with my Spod to put out my freebies I simply follow these steps.
- Take one of the rods with the tape on the line and put your reel on free spin or take the bail arm off and walk up the bank with the end of the line in your hand. When you get to the tape at the end of the rod tip stop. This is the correct distance.
- Now simply get the spod rod and do the same, walk up the bank to where you left the other line, when you get there, don't put tape on the spod rod line just go back to the reel and use the line clip to mark the distance.Now you can cast the spod rod out and it will hit the line clip at exactly the right distance.
- Now fill your spod and use your casting Line to aim and you will be able to bait your swim with total accuracy.
These are a few simple steps that will insure that you are accurately feeding the areas you are fishing and if followed correctly they will help improve your catch rate.
How to build a Wormery
I have recently been asked by some younger anglers how to build a wormery so today I am going to walk through the steps.
Worms of all types make a great bait. Nearly every species of coarse fish will readily take a worm if offered in the right way. Therefore it can pay to have a ready supply at your disposal. Obviously you could dig your worms from your garden but this is very labour intensive and you will find that sometimes the worms are down very deep in the earth. This could leave you with little or no bait. You could also buy your Worms from most good tackle shops but that can work out very expensive. The cheapest and simplest way of ensuring you have a good supply of worms at your disposal any time you need them is to build your own wormery.
It is very simple to build a wormery and once you have it set up it needs very little attention. The worms will be happy to do there own thing in their perfect environment until you need them. All you need to do is keep them topped up with food such as vegetable peelings, mashed potato and tea bags. This will keep them quite content and they should breed well giving you a constant supply of quality bait.
Build your own wormery in 7 simple steps.
- The first thing you need is a suitable container to house the worms. I use one of the household recycling bins that are supplied by most councils but you could use any similar sized plastic container.
- Drill a few small holes into the base of your container to act as drainage. You don't want them to get waterlogged!
- Place a layer of wet news paper on the bottom.
- Now add a layer of about 4 inches of fine gravel. This is available from any garden centre.
- Add another layer of wet newspaper.
- Now add a layer of moss and leaf mulch about 2 inches thick and again cover with a layer of wet news paper.
- This is the stage that you add your earth. You want to add good garden soil that will already hold lots of the organic food that the worms live on. Try to insure that you remove any large stones. Fill your bin up to within half an inch of the top of your container and there you have it your own wormery.
The only thing you have to remember is to keep your wormery topped up with suitable food but be careful not to over feed your worms. If you find a lot of rotted food when you go to re-feed you are feeding them too much and that can damage the wormery.
Another tip is to change about half of the soil every few months. This is necessary because keeping the worms in the same soil will eventually poison them.
It is really that simple. Keep to these rules and you will always have a good supply of worms at your disposal in minutes.
How to plumb the depth when float fishing
I have noticed that there have been a lot of posts on various fishing forums lately from novice anglers asking, How to plumb the depth when float fishing? To experienced anglers this may seem a simple matter but it is obviously confusing to some so I am going to explain how to do it.
Firstly lets look at what plumbing the depth means?
Plumbing is how we find out how deep the area of the river or lake that we intend to fish is. We do this so that we can set the depth of our float so that our bait is at the level we want it to be. For example if we are fishing a river with a stickfloat we would plumb the depth to ascertain how far the float needs to be from the hook so that our bait is travelling through the swim suspended just off the bottom of the river bed. If we did not do this and had the float set too deep our hook would keep catching the bottom dragging our float under. By plumbing the depth we can set the float so it travels smoothly through the whole swim.
Another reason for plumbing the depth is to get an understanding of what the river or lake bed is like in front of you. The bed of a river/lake can vary greatly. One area in front of you may be 3 foot deep and then drop away to 6 foot. Knowing how it varies can help you choose the best spot to present your bait. Plumbing also allows you to choose exactly where in the water you want your bait. This can vary greatly on what species your fishing for and on how you want to present your bait. If you were fishing for Tench you may want your bait right on the lake bed or just an inch off the bottom. Accurate plumbing will allow you to do this.
How to plumb the depth?
First set up your float and shot it with the correct amount of lead shot. If you are a beginner to float fishing it can help to first place all the shot directly under your float. Once you have the float correctly set with just the tip showing you can move your dropping shot further down the line. When you are happy that you have your tackle set how you want it you attach the Plumb lead to find the depth. A plumb lead is basically a ledger that you attach to the hook while you are checking for the depth. There are various designs but I favour the cork bottomed version as this is easy to attach but more secure than the clip on variety. You are trying to get your float set to the exact depth of the River or lake in the spot you wish to fish so that you know the depth. You attach your plumb lead to the hook and then cast to the desired spot. The heavy lead will sink to the bottom and if your float is set too shallow it will be pulled under. If it is set to deep it will still float. This will tell you if you need to go deeper or shallower. You then reel in and adjust the float as needed and recast. By repeating this action you will be able to ascertain how deep the swim is. You can then work around the swim to get an idea of the layout of what the bottom is like in front of you.
Here is a picture from the excellent Pleasure fishing.com that shows clearly how your float acts as you plumb the depth.
A good tip to remember is to mark the depth by placing the hook in the eye nearest the reel and reeling in until the float is tight against your rod. Count how many eyes it is up to where the float sits then if you get snapped up you can quickly set your tackle at the right depth without having to re=plumb.
Firstly lets look at what plumbing the depth means?
Plumbing is how we find out how deep the area of the river or lake that we intend to fish is. We do this so that we can set the depth of our float so that our bait is at the level we want it to be. For example if we are fishing a river with a stickfloat we would plumb the depth to ascertain how far the float needs to be from the hook so that our bait is travelling through the swim suspended just off the bottom of the river bed. If we did not do this and had the float set too deep our hook would keep catching the bottom dragging our float under. By plumbing the depth we can set the float so it travels smoothly through the whole swim.
Another reason for plumbing the depth is to get an understanding of what the river or lake bed is like in front of you. The bed of a river/lake can vary greatly. One area in front of you may be 3 foot deep and then drop away to 6 foot. Knowing how it varies can help you choose the best spot to present your bait. Plumbing also allows you to choose exactly where in the water you want your bait. This can vary greatly on what species your fishing for and on how you want to present your bait. If you were fishing for Tench you may want your bait right on the lake bed or just an inch off the bottom. Accurate plumbing will allow you to do this.
How to plumb the depth?
First set up your float and shot it with the correct amount of lead shot. If you are a beginner to float fishing it can help to first place all the shot directly under your float. Once you have the float correctly set with just the tip showing you can move your dropping shot further down the line. When you are happy that you have your tackle set how you want it you attach the Plumb lead to find the depth. A plumb lead is basically a ledger that you attach to the hook while you are checking for the depth. There are various designs but I favour the cork bottomed version as this is easy to attach but more secure than the clip on variety. You are trying to get your float set to the exact depth of the River or lake in the spot you wish to fish so that you know the depth. You attach your plumb lead to the hook and then cast to the desired spot. The heavy lead will sink to the bottom and if your float is set too shallow it will be pulled under. If it is set to deep it will still float. This will tell you if you need to go deeper or shallower. You then reel in and adjust the float as needed and recast. By repeating this action you will be able to ascertain how deep the swim is. You can then work around the swim to get an idea of the layout of what the bottom is like in front of you.
Here is a picture from the excellent Pleasure fishing.com that shows clearly how your float acts as you plumb the depth.
A good tip to remember is to mark the depth by placing the hook in the eye nearest the reel and reeling in until the float is tight against your rod. Count how many eyes it is up to where the float sits then if you get snapped up you can quickly set your tackle at the right depth without having to re=plumb.
How to use the wallis Cast
How to cast with a centrepin? With the winter fast approaching and the UK rivers coming into their best I thought it may be an idea to explain the Wallis Cast for those who like to fish in a more traditional manner with a trusty centrepin.
I am a big fan of the centrepin. I have found no more satisfying way of fishing than trotting a swollen river on a winters day in the pursuit of specimen roach. And using my trusty centrepin only adds to the thrill. For those of you who have not fished with a centrepin it is hard to explain the attraction. I suppose it is the feeling of total control you have over your float and the knowledge that you are acheiving the best presentation. I think also it is the knowledge that you have mastered a difficult skill to learn as the centrepin is not an easy bit of kit to come to terms with.
It can be daunting to use a centrepin for the first time. It is so different from the normal open faced match reel that are used by most these days that many anglers don't know where to start.
How do I cast?
This is the first question most anglers ask when they are introduced to the centrepin. The centrepin is basically a revolving drum that holds the line which only comes off as the drum spins. This is why you have to master the Wallis Cast. There are other ways to cast, like pulling line from the first three rings of the rod and holding them in your free hand and releasing as you swing or indeed just pulling the desired amount of line from the drum and holding it in your free hand until you swing and release. These can be good ways to start, but both are limiting in the amount of distance your cast will achieve and are very prone to causing tangles.
The Wallis cast can cause you problems too such as over runs but once you have mastered it you will find yourself able to cast across a river with ease.
The Wallis Cast is achieved by pulling on the line to start the drum spinning as you swing and release the float. I would advise using a centrepin without a line guard or one that has a detachable line guard as they can hamper the cast. To achieve a good distance in your cast you want to ensure that the line is coming off of the bottom of the drum. That means you have to turn the handle anti-clockwise to reel in. Then you simply follow these movements to achieve the cast.
- You want to stand side on to the river looking down its length with your rod hand on the river side of your body.
- Hold your bulk shot in your free hand and keep the line tight to the rod tip. This will ensure a spring effect in the cast.
- In your rod hand hold the drum in place with your thumb.
- Still holding the shot use your index finger to hook the line just above the reel.
- Swing your body around toward the river while at the same time using your index finger to pull the line away from the drum setting it spinning.
- At the two o'clock position release the shot from your hand sending the float out into the river.
- Finally slow the drum with your thumb.
That in effect is the Wallis Cast. It may still be somewhat confusing to you but if you try out these instructions you will soon understand the principle. The Wallis cast does take a bit of practice to master but once you have gotten the hang of it you will wonder why you hadn't tried it years before.
Try watching this video clip by Glen Smith to better understand the principle,
How to use Watercraft
Watercraft is the skill of knowing when and where to fish for a particular species. It is a skill that takes a lifetime to perfect but just by knowing a bit of watercraft and using it when you set out for the day will see your catch rate improve.
In these days of commercial fisheries it is becoming less important to practice watercraft. Why worry about it when you can sit in any peg and catch 100 lbs of carp? Many young anglers who come into our sport now start on these fisheries where the fish almost hang themselves on the line. Then later when they progress and decide to fish other waters where the fish pose a real challenge they find themselves blanking time and time again and for many that is enough to deter them.
It is a shame because for many of us the joy of fishing is that we can pursue our sport in a variety of settings. Fishing a new venue can be daunting for many anglers but using watercraft will allow you to fish Rivers, Canals and stillwaters with confidence and aid you greatly in your catch rate.
A good example of how we use Watercraft is to look at a stretch of river a mile long. That stretch will hold a wide variety of species and many fish of varying size. Where then do you fish?
It is true that you may catch fish from any swim but what if you want to catch a Perch? It is very likely that only a few swims in that mile actually hold Perch so by fishing the others you would be wasting your time. This is where you use Watercraft. First you need to know a little about the Perch. It is a predator who feeds on fish and insects and it uses stealth to hunt them by hiding in dark or weedy areas where its camouflaged body will keep it hidden. Therefore we look for swims that have overhanging trees and weedrafts or banks of weeds and Lilly's that would be an ideal ambush point for the Perch to wait for their prey. You could try all of these likely haunts or keep using watercraft to reduce the number further.
- Perch feed best in low light levels so you can discount any swims in the bright sunshine.
- Perch like to hunt fry in the shallows.
- Perch like to ambush prey from behind islands and reed banks.
These are just a few more considerations that may point you to a likely swim and a brief explanation of how we use watercraft. Obviously your considerations would vary for each species but it gives you an idea.
Watercraft is also the knowledge of when to fish for each species. For example there is little point in fishing for Eels during the daytime or Tench in the heart of winter. Take a winters day on the same stretch of river. It has been raining for weeks and the river is flooded, brown and dirty. There would be little point in fishing for Perch, Chub or Dace as they are unlikely to feed in such conditions, but Roach and Barbel would feed well and you could have a bumper day if you target them. This is simple watercraft but it would make all the difference to your day.
As I have said Watercraft is a huge subject and can take a lifetime to perfect. Many anglers have already been using watercraft before they have even heard of the term. It is not something that is easy to teach but as your knowledge of the sport grows so will your watercraft skills. You can certainly add to your skills by understanding the fish that you hope to catch and looking at more experienced anglers will also help. The best specimen hunters are all experts at watercraft and it is a good idea to learn all you can from them.
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Dapping For Dace
'Dapping for Dace' many of you will not of heard of this term before as it is a forgotten form of angling in this modern age of Carp Fishing. I myself was unaware of it until I read about it in an old Fishing book that i am currently reading.
Dapping or Dibbling as it is called in some parts of the country is a method that was once popular with many of the countries anglers. Dapping is achieved by hooking a fly onto your hook and dropping it onto the service of the stream or river where it will move about creating small vibrations that will attract the service feeding dace. You can use any type of fly although the book suggested Mayflies or the common house fly. You could of course use an artificial fly which would save you the trouble of where to source your bait.
The trick with Dapping is to drop your fly onto the feeding fish. It is important to stay out of site so you would need to fish from some form of cover. I would not say this is a method that will drastically change your catch results but if like me you like a change and a challenge it is worth a try. I was intrigued when i read about Dapping so yesterday I ventured down to the Stour and gave it a go. I was fishing the tail end of a weirpool so I had cover from the bankside trees and the white water. For bait I had caught a few Bluebottles that had been buzzing around the shed and after hooking one onto a size 14 hook and using a BB shot to add weight I lowered it onto the service of the water. After a few uneventful runs through I gently lifted the fly half an inch off of the water and let it drop, instantly i was into a lovely 8 oz Dace. Next cast I repeated the 'dapping' effect by lifting and dropping the fly and again a bite and another cracking 8 oz Dace this was the pattern until my supply of Flies had gone. In all i caught 12 Dace in an hour all of them around 6-8oz. I may not use this method often but it was fun to try and for those who like fly fishing or want to pursue the better than average Dace it is worth a go.
Try Feeder fishing
I recently had one of the most enjoyable nights fishing I have had in years. I was fishing on the Dorset Stour on the Blandford Angling clubs stretch 'The crown meadows' I caught no fewer than 21 Bream all over 6lbs with the biggest slab weighing a hefty 8lb 6oz. The fish came in 8 hours of mad action and were great fun to catch. All caught on a simple feeder set up that any one can use. Here are a few tips to get you started.
Bream can congregate in huge shoals, they are predominantly bottom feeders and a shoal can sweep up a huge amount of bait very quickly. A great way to attract a shoal of Bream and then to hold them in the swim is by using an open end or cage feeder.
For those new to Feeder fishing all you need is a ledger or feeder rod, a fixed spool reel with 4-6lb line, a swivel, a buffer bead and of course your hook.
Here is a drawing of a simple feeder rig sourced from www.pleasurefishing .com that shows how to arrange your end tackle.
As you can see the feeder is free running on this rig which allows the fish to confidently take the bait giving clear bite indication, There are many other rigs that can be used with a feeder such as bolt rigs but for the beginner this rig is easy and adequate for most scenario's.
The beauty of the open end feeder is that it allows you to present a bed of feed to attract and hold the fish. This is done using groundbait. I generally use simple brown crumb groundbait with a good helping of particles such as sweetcorn and maggots. Though this could vary depending on my hookbait. I also add some liquid additives such as scopex to give it an extra kick.
The key to being successful with your feeder is accuracy. Once you have chosen your spot in the swim you must insure that you cast accurately so that the feeder lands in the same area. This is key as it allows you to build up a bed of groundbait and insures your bait is on that bed. The last thing you want is feed all over the swim. A good tip is to pick a tree or bush on the far bank and cast to it, if you are unable to control the range of your cast simply use the line clip on your reel, by doing these simple things you should hit the mark every time.
There are many ways to detect bites when feeder fishing the simplest being by watching the quivertip that is the tip of your feeder/ledger rod. But when fishing for Bream I prefer my Delkim alarms and a fox bobbin this allows you to fish with more than one rod and at night you can be totally confident that you will see the bites.
Feeder fishing is a very simple method to master and can give great rewards. If you have never tried it before give it a go. Here are my top tips
- Use a hooklength to avoid losing tackle if you get broken off
- At the start of the session cast regularly to build a bed of feed
- Accuracy is everything, use a line clip
- Let bites develop when fishing for Bream, Don't strike to quickly
- Insure you can cast easily to your target area to avoid mistakes
- Bream love cocktail baits i.e sweetcorn and worm
- Bream feed more confidently at night
Feeder fishing is great fun, click this link to find everything you need and more
Have you got your Rod licence?
It is the law in England that any angler over the age of 12 fishing for Salmon, Trout or freshwater fish including Eels MUST have a valid Environment Agency Rod licence.
Having a valid Rod licence is a necessity!
Although some Anglers may resent having to pay a small annual fee to enjoy their sport the majority realise it is the only way to ensure that our Rivers, lakes and other waterways are cared for and maintained!
Although there is some debate as to how much of the licence fee reaches the sport, there is no doubt that it does. The Environment Agency Care for and Maintain our waterways and ensure the survival of our sport. So if you care about your Sport please insure you have a licence.
This year the Environment Agency launched the new look licence. Gone are the old Paper licences that when you carried you were lucky lasted more than a month, to be replaced by a convenient Credit Card licence that fits nicely into your wallet and is totally waterproof. Another bonus of the new Licence is that you can you use the same card each year by just repaying your annual fee. Also the 1-8 day temporary licences now involve just getting a reference number that is all you need to go fishing. The new licence also shows less of your personal details which helps with security in times when identity theft is an ever increasing problem!It Means more money goes into our sport! The main bonus about the new style licence is that means more value for money. by saving on costs by reusing your licence annually the Environment Agency can use the money saved to directly help our sport. That means more fish being stocked,better pollution controls, new Trailways and development projects and many other things we thank the Environment Agency for.
Having a valid Rod licence is a necessity!
Although some Anglers may resent having to pay a small annual fee to enjoy their sport the majority realise it is the only way to ensure that our Rivers, lakes and other waterways are cared for and maintained!
Although there is some debate as to how much of the licence fee reaches the sport, there is no doubt that it does. The Environment Agency Care for and Maintain our waterways and ensure the survival of our sport. So if you care about your Sport please insure you have a licence.
This year the Environment Agency launched the new look licence. Gone are the old Paper licences that when you carried you were lucky lasted more than a month, to be replaced by a convenient Credit Card licence that fits nicely into your wallet and is totally waterproof. Another bonus of the new Licence is that you can you use the same card each year by just repaying your annual fee. Also the 1-8 day temporary licences now involve just getting a reference number that is all you need to go fishing. The new licence also shows less of your personal details which helps with security in times when identity theft is an ever increasing problem!It Means more money goes into our sport! The main bonus about the new style licence is that means more value for money. by saving on costs by reusing your licence annually the Environment Agency can use the money saved to directly help our sport. That means more fish being stocked,better pollution controls, new Trailways and development projects and many other things we thank the Environment Agency for.
You can buy your new licence in the same way from your local Post office or direct over the phone by ringing 0844 800 5386. A full season Adult licence is only £26.00 which i feel is great value but even better news is that a junior full season licence is only £5. There are temporary licences available and concessions. For full information on both Coarse and Game Rod licences or to purchase yours now go to this link Enviroment agency Rod licence
Remember it is an offence to fish without a valid Rod Licence and when caught you can be fined as much as £2,500. Don't risk it, buy yours now!
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